There are many iconic fashion shows that have been staged throughout the years, and each fashion house had at least one landmark runway that particularly impressed the media and the audience. You, my dear fashion enthusiast, also probably have one show in mind that touched your heart.
However, if we have to point out one fashion show that left an enduring mark on the fashion industry, it’s the Battle of Versailles.
The Battle of Versailles was a historic fashion event that took place on November 28, 1973, at the Palace of Versailles in France. It actually marked the start of the Paris Fashion Week, as we call it today.
As The Battle of Versailles celebrates its 50th anniversary, let’s recall its fascinating history: What it was, how it marked a new chapter in the history of fashion, and why fashion critics and enthusiasts cannot get enough of it so many years later. In this article, we tell you everything you need to know about the Battle of Versailles.
Everything You Need To Know About The Battle Of Versailles
What Is The Battle Of Versailles?
The Battle of Versailles was a fashion show like no other – a friendly competition between 5 American and 5 French fashion designers.
French Fashion vs American Fashion: Which designers competed in the Battle of Versailles?
- Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro, Pierre Cardin, Hubert de Givenchy, and Marc Bohan for Christian Dior were representing France
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- Anne Klein, (accompanied by her then 25-year-old assistant Donna Karan) Halston, Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, and Stephen Burrows were representing The United States.
Each designer had to submit eight designs for consideration.
Why Did The Battle of Versailles Happen?
Held as a fundraiser to raise money for the restoration of the royal residence, the Battle of Versailles was organized by the French Fashion Federation (Fédération Française de la Couture) and supervised by Eleanor Lambert, the founder of New York Fashion Week, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and the MET Gala who was taking care of managing public relations, and the Palace of Versailles curator Gerald Van der Kemp.
The event was held in Théâtre Gabriel, the palace’s opera house that was inaugurated in 1770 for the celebration of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.
It was a memorable evening. French socialite, baroness Marie-Hélène de Rothschild hosted the event. More than 700 guests were invited, among whom were Princess Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline de Ribes, Gloria Guinness, Christina Onassis, Andy Warhol, etc. Liza Minnelli, Josephine Baker, Dalida, and Jane Birkin, among other artists, staged spectacular performances.
Why is “The Battle of Versailles” called like that?
Despite the event being known as “The Battle of Versailles”, it wasn’t technically called like this; it’s the press who used this term because it was French fashion against American fashion, even though this was not conceived as a competitive event. It was the first time, actually, when the Parisian fashion scene met with an opponent from another country because, before 1973, France was heavily dominating the fashion world. “It was also very much focused on a series of verses related not to good/evil or might/right, but culture clashes, both within the industry and society at large,” says Vogue. Which leads us to the next chapter.
The Impact Of The Battle Of Versailles On The Fashion Industry
Ready-to-Wear vs Couture
The Battle Of Versailles was the first event during which Couture and Ready-to-wear collections were showcased together in Paris. While French fashion designers were oriented toward luxury haute couture, the American fashion market was specializing in prĂŞt-Ă -porter and sportswear. This mix of different styles was striking.
In addition, the event marked a stark departure from the traditional runway shows of the time. American designers presented a lively and diverse show and surprised everyone with their creativity and energy on stage. French designers, on the other hand, showcased more traditional and formal designs.
Who won the Battle of Versailles?
There was no official winner. American designers who stole the show, as they introduced a fresh take on fashion and style. American designs were dubbed “liberating” while some critics considered French fashion “stiff” and “old-fashioned”.Â
“The Americans emphasized ready-to-wear, sportswear and fashion as a kind of entertainment and a women’s freedom to choose her own style of dress,” shared Robin Givhan, the author of The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History in an interview with Harper’s Bazaar. WWD added: “The American segment pulsed with the vibrancy of the groovy disco era, and a more liberated view of femininity.”
Models Who Walked The Battle Of Versailles
Another distinctive trait of the show was its diverse cast on the American side. First, they brought an African-American designer, Stephen Burrows. 10 out of 36 African-American models: Pat Cleveland, Alva Chinn, Billie Blair, Bethann Hardison, Jennifer Brice, Norma Jean Darden, Charlene Dash, Barbara Jackson, Ramona Saunders, and Amina Warsuma.Â
Their participation impacted the French fashion establishment. In general, made a big step towards making the fashion industry more diverse. After the event, many designers started collaborating more and more with black models.
A Spectacular Show
From the location and the set to the number of collections shown, to the VIP guest list to incredible performances. Everything about the Battle of Versailles was spectacular. Models danced, smiled, and engaged with the audience, breaking the static traditional runway displays. Nowadays, we are used to seeing extravagant shows. However, back in the 1970s, these events were staged as mere presentations of collections. The models walked the runway and that’s it. It was quite straightforward – with no special light and sound effects, choreographies, performers, or whatsoever.Â
The Revolution Of The Fashion Industry
The main reason why the Battle of Versailles resonated so much back in the day is because in 1973. France was the epicenter of fashion. However, the United States was not considered its equal counterpart and it was relatively unknown on the international stage. Therefore, this event is often considered a turning point in the fashion industry. It challenged the dominance of the French fashion industry. Also, it marked the rise of American fashion on the global fashion scene.Â
This cultural and fashion milestone changed the landscape of the fashion industry forever. According to Didier Grumbach, former president of the Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode for WWD, American licensing firms, until then focused on a roster of French names, began to see the potential in designers like de la Renta and Bill Blass, and the fund-raiser, viewed as a promotional event, did not generate much media attention then, or in subsequent years, in France, though it was meaningful and impactful for the U.S. industry.
Due to the significant place that it holds in the fashion industry, the Battle of Versailles was a largely documented event. It you wish to learn more about it, you can read Robin Givhan’s book The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History or watch the documentary The Battle At Versailles and share your opinion with us later.
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