As you might know, the biggest fashion houses have their fragrances and they represent a big portion of their business. Marketing campaigns around fragrance launches add depth to a brand’s storytelling strategy. Also, fragrances represent a way for customers to feel part of the brand when they cannot afford to buy accessories or clothing.
Today, let’s delve into the fascinating intersection of fashion and business. Let’s explore the historical roots of renowned fashion houses and their foray into the fragrance industry.
The First Ever Fragrances Created By Fashion Designers
Who was the first designer to introduce fragrances?
The credit for introducing fragrances into a fashion designer’s offer is often attributed to French couturier Paul Poiret.
In 1911, Paul Poiret launched “Parfums de Rosine,” a subsidiary company named after his daughter. So, this venture marked the first time a fashion designer extended their brand into the realm of perfumery.
Paul Poiret used his fragrances to refresh the air in his fashion salons. Captivated by the smell, his customers soon started asking him to create scents for them as well.
In addition to synthetic formulas, Paul Poiret used natural plant extracts. So, these extracts are from rare flowers, grasses, leaves, succulent fruits, woods like cedar and pine, and also coffee.Â
Besides fragrances, Les Parfums de Rosine also sold toiletries and cosmetics. It was a way for the couturier to complement the look. It offers a cheaper alternative for those who couldn’t afford his expensive couture. Thus, he pioneered the idea of how to extend a brand’s product offering and target a wider range of consumers.
Paul Poiret’s foray into the world of perfumery set a precedent for other fashion designers. So, today, it’s common for fashion houses to have their own signature fragrances as an integral part of their brand identity.
So, let’s take a look at when the other brands launched their fragrances.
Chanel first perfume
To Gabrielle Coco Chanel, wearing a good fragrance was as important as wearing a beautiful outfit. Driven by the desire to create a complete look and lifestyle for women, she launched her iconic perfume Chanel N°5 in 1921. Also, it is named it after her lucky number 5.Â
Chanel N°5 was created by Ernest Beaux, a perfumer from Grasse. He used aldehydes, a class of organic compounds that allows fragrances to have an “airy” quality. It gives the scent freshness and light. It was not a common ingredient at the time, so this is one reason Chanel N°5 stood out. At the request of Coco Chanel, Beaux also added jasmine, ylang-ylang, may rose, and sandalwood.Â
The first fragrance of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton first entered the world of fragrances in 1927 with “Heures d’Absence”. It was a personal fragrance for the Maison because it was named after the family’s country home.
Only 300 bottles were made at the time. Each bottle was engraved with an airplane. Also, it is a symbol of Louis Vuitton’s passion for travel, which as you see didn’t only serve as an inspiration for his trunks.Â
The advert below, published in the French newspaper Gringoire in 1928 reads: “Louis Vuitton asks you to accept the homage of its first perfume “Heures D’Absence” and hopes that this name alone evokes for you from now on the pleasant idea of travel inseparable from the name of Vuitton.”
The first perfume of Christian Dior
Christian Dior’s first perfume was Miss Dior, and it launched in 1947 – the same year as Dior’s first-ever collection – the iconic “New Look”. The fragrance was composed by Paul Vacher and Jean Carles.
Did you know that the perfume was named after Christian Dior’s sister Catherine Dior? The idea actually came to the couturier’s muse Mitzah Bricard. When she saw Catherine arrive at the couture house one day, she said, “Look, there’s Miss Dior”, and at that moment, the designer realized that the fragrance was meant to be called Miss Dior.
The first perfume of Balenciaga
Cristobal Balenciaga was Christian Dior’s biggest rival in fashion after Coco Chanel. So when Monsieur Dior launched “Miss Dior” in 1947, the same year, Balenciaga decided to add fragrances to his couture collections as well. That’s how Balenciaga’s first perfume “Le Dix” was launched in 1947.
Although the founder disliked making public appearances, giving interviews, and having his photograph taken, his team believed he should be the face of Balenciaga perfume’s campaign because he was an attractive man and his image would help to promote Le Dix.
The first fragrance of Rabanne
The first perfume of Paco Rabanne, christened “Calandre” was launched in 1969. Fun fact: “Calandre” is French for “a car’s radiator grill”.
The bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand using metal, a nod to the designer’s passion for futuristic materials that he used in his collections – the “12 unwearable dresses” being his most famous.
The first perfume of Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent launched his first perfume in 1964, using simply his initial “Y”. According to the brand, the founder wanted to create a “lush, heavy, and languid perfume.”
It was imagined by Jean Amic of Roure using sandalwood, oak moss, and patchouli as base notes, and tuberose and ylang-ylang as mid notes. The fragrance was stenciled in gold in a simple transparent square bottle designed by Pierre Dinard.
The first Gucci perfume
Gucci launched its first perfume, named “Gucci No. 1” in 1975 – 53 years after the Italian luxury house was founded. Also, it was created by perfumer Guy Robert.
The chypre-floral fragrance was made using a blend of aldehydes, hyacinth, palisander, rosewood, geranium, bergamot, green notes, and lemon.
Calvin Klein’s first fragrance
Although Calvin Klein is most famous for its “CK One” and “Obsession” fragrances, the first ever perfume launched by the American brand under Calvin Klein Cosmetics Co. was “Calvin” in 1978. Also, it was followed by the first fragrance for men in 1981.
The first perfume of Jean-Paul Gaultier
Jean-Paul Gaultier entered the fragrance world in 1993 with “Classique”, a perfume inspired by his childhood memories. According to the brand, he wanted his fragrance to be “unique, rebellious and addictive.”
Prada’s first fragrance
Prada introduced its first fragrances – Prada Amber pour Homme (for men) and Prada Amber pour Femme (for women) – in 2004.
Created by Daniela Roche Andrier, Prada Amber pour Femme includes oriental notes such as sandalwood from India, patchouli from Indonesia, labdanum from France, and benzoin from Siam. So, while Prada Amber pour Homme is composed of amber, fougère, cologne, and leather.Â
Miuccia Prada took part in the making of Prada Amber for men’s perfume. She said: “I just tried to imagine what I would like if I were a man. Maybe due to the fact that it was created by a female hand, the fragrance is not aggressive at all, like it might have been expected from an oriental fragrance with leather and amber. Instead, it is very elegant and masculine gentle.”
Which is your favorite fragrance?
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